Monday, March 27, 2017

Motorcycle Trips around Mumbai

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/route-travel-queries/99060-7-one-day-routes-mumbai.html

Working with a real estate firm in Mumbai, I had the opportunity to extensively travel around the Mumbai region. I am putting up seven maps for your reference, mostly all doable on Saturday (0600 to 2030Hrs)- so you relax at home on Sunday. These are the ones I did.

I have another set of maps for two day rides, but I would need more time to assemble and post that.

All these roads are good (no off raoading, unless you want to) and safe to travel on, and all should be really scenic come June15th.

1. Powai- Kolad- Tamhini- Lonavala- Powai (345Km)

Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps 

2. Powai- Kon Gaon- Kalyan- Malsej Ghat- Karjat- Chowk- Powai (359 Km)

Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps 


3. Powai- Nagothane- Murud-Janjira- Alibag-Vadkhal- Powai (306 Km)

Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps


4. Powai- Kolad- Tamhini- Paud- Lonavala- Khopoli- Pen- Panvel- Powai (376 Km)

Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps

5. Powai- Mahad- Shirwal- Lonavala- Powai (453Km)
Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps 

6. Powai- Kalyan- Malsej Ghat- Otur-Bhandardara Dam- Asangaon_Powai (352 Km)
Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps

7. Powai- Mahad- Mahabaleshwar- Panchgani- Pune(Chandni Chwk)- Tamhini- Kolad- Powai (2 days- 563Km)

Powai, Maharashtra to Powai, Maharashtra - Google Maps

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...hi-temple.html (Quick Rainy Day Getaway - Hadshi Temple)

How Fly-by-wire throttle systems work!

This is an attempt to simplify the new tech that was earlier seen only in bigger and more expensive bikes and with the launch of the new KTM 390, we would seeing this electronic throttle mechanism too.

We were discussing the change from cable driven throttle to the newer optical sensor /fly by wire systems which were noticed en masse on the Triumph Tiger and now we find that the KTM 390 too will have it. A completely new segment of riders will be shortly introduced to this technology, probably just one of many new things to come to India soon.

Indian riders born and brought up with the constant fear of substandard cables and the like, always had questions and even figured out which Yamaha or Pulsar cables for their Harleys.
Now with the advent of the Optical Sensor (or throttle position sensor) driven throttles, the fear of dust, rain and physical damage continue in the mind of the riders.
I have tried to explain how the new system is built with a certain 'vision' and thought and how this works.

The signal from the throttle control actuates a transponder which generates electrical impulses. This is almost similar to the volume button on an older amplifier that can be found in almost any house. Depending on the twist, the the signal that goes to Electronic Control Unit (ECU) of your bike is varied. The ECU calculates th demand and the urgency (rate of change as seen by the OS/TPS and therefore commands the throttle butterflies to open at a given computed rate.
This involvement of the ECU then permits a few things to be managed very well- cruise control, variable power  requirements like rain, of road, track etc. Any yank on the throttle when in off road-situation would instantly result in a more relaxed command to the thrttle body than what its cable driven counter part would- possibly resulting in an unwanted jerk, which could result in wheel spin and therefore a crash too.
This is the good of the 'fly by wire' till such time that the desi mentality of 'what if..' creeps in? What if dust enters the optical sensor or the resistor (depending on the bike) which is generating the throttle position reading, and the unthinkable happens. 500Km from home and possibly 700 from the nearest service center!
Let me try and explain how the system is integrated in the Triumph Tiger and how redundancy is built in.
The optical sensor (OS) that works with the throttle, has a secondary sensor with it. In the failure of the first sensor and when the ECU detects the lack of a signal from OS1, the OS2 takes over and the motorcycle can carry on till its destination and then service center for repairs.
The cynical rider came up almost immediately with plausible events on Indian roads- fall- unintentional in a parking lot, crash, or an errant stone from under the tire of another vehicle- ten different scenarios. We agree to one scenario- and proceed. So the motorcycle has a fall or is physically damaged and in the unlikely event of both OS'es getting damaged, then what?

Should the ECU detect failure of both the OS it sends an emergency override signal to the engine, and will lock the throttle at 3000 RPM constant. This enables the bike to get itself home in a 'limp home' mode and the 3000 RPM is enough for the bike to maintain a steady and relatively safe 60kmph in 6th gear- enabling it to ride on almost any highway in the world.

IF one puts logic to it, then it suddenly seems very simple. It would be interesting to learn from others on topics that are new to our sub-continent- also where my knowledge or writing may be incomplete, please do feel free to pen in your comments.

Sunday, March 26, 2017

A conversation in caution- the Z900- not for newbies.

Kawasaki just yesterday launched a few bikes and what the Indian biker community at large saw was a spectacular Liter-class Z900 at an almost affordable price of 9L ex-showroom. Affordable and that word worried me.


So last weekend, two super bikers on a ride outside Mumbai met with accidents, bad enough for their injuries to qualify as life-threatening, and now along comes this Z900, that has a a price tag thats really tempting and THAT provokes me to write this experience on a Z1000- which has been phased out, but not before passing on its 'Sugomi' DNA to this smaller sibling. 


Suddenly this has woken up riders who always wanted a 'big' bike but were worried about the cost, so I find my mail box flooded with queries on this Z900. This is my opinion on the Z.

(The Japanese word 'sugomi,' describes the intense aura or energy given off by a person or object of greatness felt by the viewer. Someone, or something, possessing Sugomi inspires awe, leaves an indelible impression, is imposing in stature or ability, and commands respect.)

Almost now a full 6 months ago- probably just after the 2016 monsoons, I rode the Z1000 on a stretch from Dahanu towards Vapi. It had to account for being the most blistering of rides I have ever done, and I do not think I look forward to out doing that thrill again. Here goes that story and in it lies a big lecture on a part of the superbike culture, if I can call it that. It started with a conversation with a friend- and hence the format-

DJ: What are your thoughts on Z900?                        
                     
KD: About the Z series? Well, one needs to graduate to those bikes                        
Give me some time and listen-wait.. let me type you a song.
in my opinion, a sportsbike rider should start off spending about bout 6 or 8 months minimum in a 600-650 environment  before one tries a Z800/1000 or now  the 1000. The 1000 has a speed range from 60 to 270 in 6th gear and for once it had torque that made sure even on Indian roads you did not have to shift out of gear to pull up to a faster friend, or for overtaking- you always have the torque on tap.                      
A newbie will get seriously hurt in this machine. Very quickly
Day 1 or day 2  at the outer would be my guess.                     
The 'sugomi' inspires layout is extreme and you literally feel like you are leaning over the front wheel which actually in real life looks/feels as if it is under the fuel tank!                     
The last think you see in front is the upper edge of the speedometer. It has astounding torque numbers from the word Go- unlike other superbikes that have a nice high revving start... that give you some kind of warning- that things are going to get quicker with the rising rpm needle.
These Z-bikes are get up and run from the min you touch the throttle. So what happens for a new rider is - as if the bike has an evil soul that screams "Surprise motherfucker" when you even stare at the throttle. Reading specifications on bikes takes a whole new meaning as then you realize that the bike dumps its 123PS power at a 'Low' 6000 rpm and would mean a almost logarithmic power curve from 1000/1300 rpm to 6000- most/many other inline engine bikes that can freely rev and have a more linear response compared to this. Others will have stratospheric rev limiters and the peak power would come in a shade before that. Not so with the Z1000, and I suspect the same with the Z900.
                       
So the point here is-
Unless you know what stunning acceleration is
Unless you know what big bikes mean by throttle response
You need to start low and slow and work your way up to this bike.

I can almost see newbie riders and even those with a smidgen of 650 experience smirking that they can handle the throttle and their wrist was lighter than most Surgeons... and they would tame the right-and-tight curve in, and not wheelie in 3rd gear (oh yes! this Z1000 could probably do that too.) It is a very stable bike with and incredibly good balance, and an engine that is unobtrusive and super smooth- the exhaust very subdued and unlike a Akrapovic that would talk to you when gunned. The bike is uncomplaining at any rpm and delivers a false sense of security at any if not all speeds. Everything till now lulls a new rider who relates his security to the 'vibes' from the machine, which are super nice, to put it mildly.

Bad Joss will happen. I found that it took hardly about 100Km of easy riding to think that you had conquered the bike, or if that's too strong, you feel you have been on this bike for atleast 6 months, when it hasnt probably been even 60 minutes. This is when the fun starts. and you start dropping a gear for sweeping bends and then most often loose count to whether you are in 5th or 4th... or that you never shifted out of 6th. Its that brilliant an engine. This is when you become complacent with the engine and its acceleration.
If you have not been sufficiently overwhelmed by the acceleration then comes the Brakes.
The brakes, if you just touch the brake levers you may come off over the handle bars, its that superbly engineered- to put it bluntly.
I kid you not. So at say 160 or 170 which is actually pedestrian and piddling for the Z1000, if you grab the brakes- you will have no way of knowing what will happen next                   
It's not a newbie bike- bottom line                        
So stunning is the acceleration and absolutely blistering the brakes. Amazing aggression. Fabulous bike. One will have to ride a super bike category vehicle to figure out the sharp rake and how it steers, how the bike leans in bends and how to power thru the bends to be able to ride the Z900 and enjoy it.                        
If one buys it off the shelf and starts off to ride then two things can happen.
1. Hurt
2. You will never figure out how to tame the bike (which I don't think is possible anyways) and enjoy the machine.                        

Personally
I have ridden the Z1000 and beyond 185... I don't think I had any control on what was going on- inside my mind. I was overwhelmed and I think there is no shame in saying- I was more scared on two wheels than I have every been on any other machine.
I down shifted to 4th from 6th for fun at 160... And fun ended. The engine growled like s street fighter and the rpm climbed up to some stratospheric level and the bike threatened to wheelie..... and I could sense the front end leave the road- while throttle was down to ZERO.
I did not ride the bike again.

*Alert*                                              
The fair way to lead your biking life - philosophy here- is to always experience new bikes and search for what the other bikes did new... What are they better at.
Starting small- the KTM 390- gear box and its 'click' gear changes for something sold in India. Going back in time, the RD350 close-ratio best gear box, globally acknowledged as possibly the best gearbox ever. Triumph Tiger- throttle cable redundancy (you must ask me about this). Harley-Davidson and the money and time spent on exhaust note tuning and the HD low low end torque engineering. The Hayabusa, for being generations ahead of its time- for its ability to hold stage even a decade after its launch. The guts of Suzuki to keep the V-Strom unaltered for close to about 5-odd years- saying 'this is a good bike.'
The list is endless but be practical and remember what's good for what kind of road, what kind of trip and finally what kind of bike for what kind of terrain are questions only you can answer.

Choose well, and ride safe my friend.

(Pic Courtesy- Team-BHP)

A Superbike article for newbies- 
http://beagoodrider.blogspot.in/2015/09/learn-to-lean-your-motorcycle-part-1.html


Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Motorcycle Riding Gear- other than helmets

RIDING GEAR


After the note put up on the Helmet, friends like @RajeevS and a few asked for pointers on safety wear for the rest of the body- here is my attempt at listing my thoughts on the same. These notes are focused on cruising and not for sportbikers, who face far more wind resistance, and need special clothing like full body suits to protect them against the elements. Their bike shoes dont fit on bikes like the Bullet nor suit most of the Harleys- bikes who's background I come from- so its by no means comprehensive- just my thoughts.

NECK- Go to any army supply store and purchase a round-neck warmer for about 80-180 bucks depending on quality, the kind that extends on the chest and over the upper back. The Army trusts it from uniform to ambush... you should too.

GLOVES- Leather palm lined, full finger, with mesh for air intake on the top side, knuckles made of hardened plastic or kevlar, so that if you run into a bush or -ugh- a wall, with your fist clenched once the front brake- you avoid smashing your knuckle. The leather lined palm- more than any accident, is to prevent leaving your skin on the ground, in case of an accidental fall or tip over in your building compound or at a signal when a foolish motorist tanks you from behind.

UPPER TORSO- Wear two or three light T shirts then go and try- Zeus, Rynox, Cramster from the Indian stables (5-7000) to AlpineStars, RJays, Joe Rocket, Rev'it, Harley (8-28000) from the overseas types. There should be lined pockets for armour- on the shoulders and the elbows, as well as a pad for the back. The jackets should come with a detachable rain cover inner, which can be removed and carried alongside to be worn when it rains. The slightly loose fit permits layered clothing in mild winters. The jacket should have adequate mesh and/or zippered openings to control entry of air to keep body cool in the 9 months that India has summer.

INNER WEAR- there are many companies like Icon Stryker and Thor Sentinel (about $110-140), that make products that provide 'hard' protection for the upper torso. There are various Indian companies that make variants, and a quick visit to stores that retail the jackets etc would help you see the range available in India. The strange effect is that this guard fits you like a cosset, and eliminated fatigue from wind and fluttering jackets and give your a nice and comfortable feel by holding your girth in place. Once you get used to this, no way you like riding without the inner guard.

LOWER BODY- My personal preference is to wear riding pants- the kind made again in India like Zeus (which is one of the pants I use) along with a Rev'it which I find more comfortable when riding for anything over 3-days. The pants come with rain-inners, but the main points are- padding for the waist, the rear, and thighs, not to forget integrated knee pads as well. The pants sit snug and secure and in case of an impact they resist tearing for those few crucial seconds more than your plain jeans. The Zeus cost between 5-6000 while the Rev'it came in for about twice as much. For those tasking about local riding- Wrangler came out with 2x and 4x jeans that seemed a reasonably good investment for the ride to office, or the local breakfast ride. Dainese D6, or Alpinestars Hellcat- my current favorite being the Draggin Kevlar Jeans. Price ranges from $130-200. Given the restricted use that could be foreseen- you should invest in riding pants and what follows below- 

KNEES- Knee Guards- are a must if you don't have riding pants or riding jeans- Indian ones are available- dime a dozen, however stolen dies for the popular Alpinestars model have got the market flooded with cheap chinese imitations that you cannot tell- except when they shatter in a put-down. Funny, to recommend but here, again Thor Force or Icon Strykers that really don't cost much when you compare it to skinning your knees. Price ranges from 1400-4000 for most products.
SHOES- Any ankle high boot- starting from Caterpillar or Timberland to your Woodlands and Army 'type' boots anything to prevent small stones at high speed hitting your feet, and to prevent- as far as possible the skinning of ankle in a fall. Price range would be from 1500-7000.

Monday, October 17, 2016

Basics for Motorcyclists Who Upgrade



This article was initially written in 2014 addressed to a particular group of riders., most of whom were new to the genre of 'Big Bikes' with ample torque and horsepower are their disposal and then with brakes which did nto really suit the habits of the riders or were just not able to compensate for the riders 'newness' - and lastly but not dismissed are the allegations that the brakes were just useless. No matter how that argument proceeds, I felt that the new riders- from Shine to Pulsar, CB100 to KTM390, from RE Bullets to Harleys- I think this article provides some points from my perspective. Please send in your comments- I would love to add them to my article update.

___________________________________________________

Over the past two months, along with Raghav, we have been watching a disproportionate number of incidents involving Street 750s- and in particular their rims.

We have had quite a few bent/broken rims and this post is meant from that perspective for all riders, not just the 750s- as disproportionate the numbers may be, the incidents are not restricted to them alone.

I will list a set of issues first and address the possible corrective measures in a bit

1. A lot of new riders have graduated from smaller bikes, engine capacity as well as performance envelope- wise and the one thing that riders need to keep an absolute control on is the acceleration that their bikes have, as compared to what they were riding earlier. Coming off corners, dropping gears on completing overtaking and turning on the power- etc. This is being coupled with not adjusting your stance and eyesight focus for the new motorcycle is a set up for disasters.

2. Deceleration on seeing an obstacle, be it a goat, truck, pothole, speed breaker- due to the acceleration being of a few degrees higher- more often than not, the riders are 'entering' these conditions faster than they are used to, faster than their bikes can handle and resultant- they either collide with the obstacle, or 'hit' it with force- that it results in deformation of rims and/or other vehicle body parts. Stance and focus again are to be worked on

3. Traditionally tires for Indian motorcycles are of larger profile, due to their experience on Indian roads. As it seems to many, the rubber of the bikes we ride seems to be of softer compound, not to mention of a lower aspect ratio- much needed to ensure safe acceleration and braking, as opposed to having harder compound tires which would result in a disastrous skid in either condition.

Many riders got good exposure with the group rides to Igatpuri just befor the monsoons, and especially on the way down the 8-10Km downhill from Manas to Latifwadi. Gear control, less use of brakes and the proper head position while entering curves, and while riding fast on straights. ( All locations are on the Mumbai-Nashik Highway, providing an elevational increase of about 1000-1200Meters in about 12km of super tarmac)

I will try and elaborate on a few procedures that we feel would make an impact on your quality of riding Let me begin with the smallest but oft ignored technicality first.

1. Check your tire pressure every week or two weeks at the least. This ensures proper aspect ratio of the tire and therefore the best possible protection on impact, optimum tread while riding- meaning safer acceleration and maximum contact while braking.
Most basic air compressors do not remove water vapour and that results in minor heating issues on tires- Nitrogen based air compressors/tanks are usually better maintained, and scrub water vapour better therefore resulting in lesser heating of tires. The difference is marginal and I will be free to argue about this offline. Make sure you have the correct tire pressure saved for your bike on your phone. 

2. While riding- please start making it a habit to use your front brakes more while braking. Most riders we see, use the rear brakes and you simply have to start front-biased braking. Begin to use this at lower speeds, and work your control upwards. For bikes without ABS- learn to pulse the brakes, to prevent seizing the front wheel under heavy braking. Learn to work the front suspension and dramatically lessen your braking distance. While shifting bias forward- ensure that you use the rear to maintain rear wheel directional control and prevent the bike from coming out under your seat.

3. The single biggest issue for new bike riders has been the issue of braking- this being handled in the above point- should be practiced every time you leave your building, and on every ride you do, as only practice will change the way we have been using bikes, with mostly non-existent front brakes till now... 

4. Eyesight- stop looking down in front of your wheel- its too late to do anything about it, except brace for impact if its in front of you. Chin. Chin. Chin.
Its not a song or chant- lift your chin, force yourself to look up- start looking 50-100 meters ahead of you... The faster your go, practice looking at the horizon. further away from the bike. For many that use their bikes in the city, this is a  notoriously difficult exercise- but you have no option, like the front braking issue- similarly this chin-up riding.

The best road to practice this is that Igatpuri-Latifwadi stretch, where all the time, you will be on the throttle, with the power on the rear wheel all the time, and with your eyes looking as far ahead as possible, into the next turn to check for your line and for any aberrations in the road surface.

This note is by no means comprehensive nor is it a accident-proof-your-bike essay. Practice your new bikes, air pressure, front brakes, chin-up.... make a better rider out of yourself. We are looking at a wonderful riding season from now till April-end atleast.

Help make the group riding experience a better one.

Friday, May 27, 2016

How to introduce your child to the world of motorcycling



How do you introduce an 18-year old to riding.


In all my writing about safety, I have met quite a few peers with sons and daughters approaching 18, including my own son- many of whom had this worry on how to introduce their kids to the world of motorcycle riding.

The topic broke up into three view points, all equally important. View points arranged upfront looked like this
From the Parents:- A single paramount worry seems to be the increased ‘rashness’ of riders on the road these days, and the growing indiscipline seen.
From the 3rd party:- Kids who ride rashly, and break rules, get into accidents and bring grief to their parents
From the Kids:- the need for freedom to travel, the ability to be untraceable for those few stolen moments- the increased ‘Area of Operations’ with the wheels under them.

I do believe I have been a reasonable influence on a few riders through my blog and my interactions on group rides over the past 4/5 years that I have taken this ‘Promote Road Safety’ campaign that I run in my brain.

In my minds eyes, motorcycle discipline is always a part of the upbringing- the safety, the road discipline that children imbibe from their parents first and then their riding partners. So what they watch, writes half their riding DNA, and then thats severely challenged by their peers.

I find that if the parent/elder friend/family member- decides to take the youngster under his/her wing, then group rides are usually the best way to start. Group riding usually enforces a decent speed discipline, and eliminates the rush of wanting to reach some place fast and then wait for the others.  The group offers riding safety, covering the front and the rear of the new rider and that makes for a very good starting environment. I would assume that the guardian knows what kind of a group to align with for starters. There are reckless Pulsar Riders and very safe Z1000 riders, so I find that there is no point in talking about bike categories in regards to this topic.

On group rides, the simple things that fellow riders do- be on time, greet fellow riders, gear up properly, all of this gets imbibed and that slowly becomes becomes habit. Gloves, jeans with knee guards or riding pants, boots, and most important- the full face helmet, all get automatically enforced and the benefits of that will be evident- no strainto eyes, less wind fatigue, less noise in ears, protection from the sun and most important, protection from the tarmac.

A long time ago, on a wall of store selling safety gear, I read the sign-' There are two kinds of riders, those who have fallen and those who will.' I strongly believe this. Nothing I say prevents a fall. What it does is it prevents injury. Preoperly worn gear dramatically reduces the extent of the hurt, and therefore the dismay at home, the fear quotient of family members- and also the fact that you get back in the saddle sooner.

Helmets prevent other than grievous hurt to the head region- the dust and other particles from entering the eyes and distracting the rider. Evening riders are plagued by the problem of bugs as also trucks that carry debris or sand/mud and cause havoc for the ill protected riders in their wake.

Gloves- the best example I use is the fall in the parking lot, or the fall at 2kmph at a traffic signal because there is scree or oil or some other substance on the road- that causes a fall at a minimal speed- and then the lack of good gloves results in a skinned palm.

I don’t like to present high speed accident stories and then have teenagers tune out half way through the narrative. I prefer these sand-in-eyes and skinned-palm-a@2kmph stories that they find palatable, relatable- and more importantly avoidable. 

The one thing that did not work, was negative pressure- the threats of 'don’t ride, else…' 'If you ride I/we will...' from parents. That funnily had a poor response, where the kids then borrowed bikes and then in an effort to maximize the pleasure, rode fast/furious and obviously had no proper fitting gear to protect them and minimize collateral damage when the spills ended the thrills. I would think it is better to give them the leeway and monitor that rather than blanket ban activities. Parents have no idea how their kids travel by train, or board running buses. Parents have no idea how kids climb into other kids houses using drainage pipes and neighbours balconies. All this happens, like it or not. These activities are far more dangerous than letting our child have a bike and then taught the responsibility that goes with it.

Talking to kids- they see bikes from two very important points- one is the absolute freedom from the limitation of public transport, and the vagaries of the taxi/auto drivers. The ‘instantness’ of the ability to travel is what propels most of them into riding- and possibly %’age wise a greater ‘driver’ of the need to ride. Imagine at 8PM to want to meet a friend 3km away- you could just be there ina flip of a switch and click of a gear or two. 

The second being the 'cool' factor- the smart wheels where a Duke wins over a Pulsar and Ninja wins over Duke - something like that, without getting offensive to any brand. I have been asked about what bike for a starter- that article comes up next.

Fine, I say, but then two things that make a better rider, is the removal of the word ‘urgency’ from the riding and then the small but religious habit of wearing safety gear- helmet and gloves for sitting on a bike, immaterial of distance, cause or immediacy.

How does one tackle this? Various means worked for various folks- and a few methods did not work. So there is no perfect rule or set of rules that will teach your ward to be dressed for the crash.
In 1987, my father refused to let me accept delivery of the then prized Hero Honda CD100, after a wait of 6+ months because I dilly-dallied on buying a helmet.  Day One was with helmet, and I never rode without a helmet after that. In 2013, a full 26 years later, I was flung over my handle bars on the picturesque Kaas Plateau, in broad daylight, in clear weather, in an ‘single-vehicle-accident’- into a laterite rock wall at about 45Kmph. A very poor imitation of Superman, if you can imagine, the entire point of contact with the rock face was my temple and the helmet saved my life. Thanks Dad.

Kids from colleges that we met at a recently concluded Castrol-initiative meet, told us how ‘skinned’ colleagues often went home and hid their injuries from their parents. Lucky they were to get away without requiring hospitalization- else imagine the horror of the parents.

To sum this- I feel that a healthy exposure to good riding habits is primary, and the parents/elders can and must play a significant role in taking the lead in arranging rides with groups of riders who have reasonably good safety beliefs and records.

A healthy respect for the law goes a long way in making a good citizen and a good rider too.  Early knowledge of what is good and what is not-riding habits goes a long way from staying away from trouble.

Eventually, your child will meet riders who are either gifted, or foolish, or both or neither. It is at that time, that your efforts in inculcating these habits of proper riding, and safety gear will stand by them and tell them what is not to be done.

Bungee jumping, horse riding, paratrooping, trail running are just as exhilarating- and as you treat them- with healthy dose of respect, so should you treat motorcycling


Other safety related article are available at--
http://beagoodrider.blogspot.in/2015/09/learn-to-lean-your-motorcycle-part-1.html

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Budget Helmets- and how to buy them.

Last evening and early this morning- I was chatting with a few youngsters on helmets/ and the topic was budget-but good. A tough topic till we did some reading, brain storming - and here is the essence of our discussion. In no means even the start of a topic this huge.
MT, SOL, Lazer, LS2 (originals now available again), are all very good helmets.
Being in that 4000-13000 range - they all have some niggling drawback or the other yet at the same time, all have one or two star performers that transcend these problems. Helmet noise, auto opening visors, poor quality lining, bad ventilation- being the major cribs.
Then come along-
MT- Revenge.
SOL- SF5.
For example are brilliant in the 4500-5500 range. With 'Carbon' models from mostly all touching 13000.
Another star mid-range performer is the AGV k3- starting at 9000- and going upwards.
Finally at the end of the day you need to get the fit figured out.
I found all of them reasonable in terms of fit and finish but my GT-Air has spoiled me so much that even the Arai Corsair V that I have at home feels either tight or just too wide an visor that causes sun burns after 2 Days of nonstop riding ...
Now I was told that Bell helmets- price $150-700, are better than Shoei for fit and a particular Bell Qualifier is a spectacular budget buy. I looked at them and find that they are really good for the money they charge.
Likewise.
Caberg, is an Italian brand not sold in the US but wildly popular in the EU and the UK and the Caberg Duke model- 10000 range, is supposed to be an awesome modular buy. I do not like these kinds- but it's well acclaimed/ and hence here. It/Caberg helmets meet EU rules (PSB) but no US DOT and due to two visors- no SNELL, either. But it's a beautifully made helmet- for example their Stunt, Ego or Drift models- all in the 13000 range. Having seen their fit and finish on XLs, quite possibly my next buy- if I can find one for sizing my own head. Till then it's academic.
Every once in a while I get asked about Schuberth- which to the best of my knowledge make top class modular helmets- given the propensity of chin injuries in bike crashes- I am just unable to make peace with that design. Besides the good Schu's are from 500-850USD and I leave them alone. But so many people talk about this - they must be good.
My final two bits on a helmet buy/ 
Keep going on rides with fellow riders, keep trying helmets- keep asking for reviews. Ventilation, air noise, lining ease of washability, visor/ too big or too narrow, but what finally matters is the fit. It's always the fit.

Do read this article as well-
http://beagoodrider.blogspot.in/2015/09/helmets-and-how-to-buy-them.html?m=1